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How Safe is Your Workspace?

How to Set Up a Safe Encaustic Workspace

Let’s talk safety. 

Whenever I teach an encaustic workshop—and I’m always surprised by how differently students interpret what it means to set up a safe work environment. When you’re new to encaustic, the safety guidelines can feel overwhelming. But safety is the very first thing every artist needs to understand.

You’ve probably heard warnings about encaustic’s “toxic effects,” but what really matters is understanding the actual hazards so you can minimize risks with proper setup and good habits.

Let’s start with this: never heat solvents with wax.

Some early 20th-century encaustic recipes mix hot wax with heated solvents like varnish, turpentine, or mineral spirits. This is extremely dangerous and can cause irreversible nerve damage. So I’ll say it clearly: don’t do it. Ever.

When wax melts, it releases invisible fumes and gases such as acrolein and formaldehyde. Beeswax melts at about 165°F and starts to smoke at 250°F. When wax is just warm enough to melt, decomposition is minimal—but as the temperature increases, the breakdown accelerates.

The safest working range is 180–200°F, though even at these temperatures, fumes can be irritating. That’s why ventilation is essential.

Use a thermometer—either on your palette or an infrared version—to monitor wax temperature. If you smell an acrid odor or see smoke, your wax is too hot. In rare cases, overheated wax can produce a “wax fume” fog, which is flammable if flames are present.

So let me repeat: always watch the temperature of your wax.

Proper ventilation matters.

A common misconception is that an open window is enough ventilation. It isn’t. You need to remove contaminated air and replace it with clean air. For small setups, a well-placed window fan works, but only if used correctly.

Place your table and palette directly in front of the window. Position a box fan in the window facing outward, sealed tightly around the edges. The seal is critical—it allows the fan to work as an exhaust system, pulling fumes up and out while drawing fresh air into the room.

Do not place a fan in front of your palette blowing toward the window. That only spreads contaminated air throughout the space. The goal is to pull fumes out, not push them around.

A simple test: light incense and watch the smoke. If ventilation is correct, the odor of melted wax should not linger.

Safety isn’t optional—it’s part of honoring yourself and your creative practice. Creating in a safe space isn’t just responsible; it’s deeply nourishing.

 


Tell me, what are some of the other safety measures you have implemented in your studio.  Let me know in the comments below.

Be well….be creative,

Photo Encaustic

 

 

 

23 thoughts on “How Safe is Your Workspace?”

  1. It’s tough to use a fan in the window in winter especially when my studio has tall crank out windows. If I worked in my kitchen, I have a very powerful range hood. Would that work? It’s the strongest hood you can legally use in a home without installing an air exchange system.

    1. The range hood would work as long as it removed the contaminants from above the palette. You’ll want to test it. Remember, the particles are sitting just above the palette. Crank out windows are not impossible to work with. You just need to seal all around the fan. It’s more of a hassle, but not impossible. You could always get a piece of plywood the size of the window and then cut out so the fan sits in the plywood and then seal around the fan. Then remove the entire apparatus when not using. I know you are in the frozen tundras of Fargo, but it’s pretty much the same here in Minneapolis…..but this winter in a temporary studio I worked with open windows with my exhaust fan out the window. The heat of the griddle compensated a bit for the window being open to exhaust.

  2. I had an existing overhead exhaust in my studio (a bit more robust than the usual bathroom fan, but nowhere close to being as powerful as ventafume system), but found that it wasn’t enough to draw the fumes up and out. I taped, clipped and sealed dryer venting to the fan (removed the grill cover first). Now I can position the dryer venting – propped up so it is just above where the palette or griddle is sitting – and it vents really well. I open a window a crack to circulate air.

    This is such an important post! Safety first. Thanks, Clare.

    1. Great idea Emily. Looks like you got it. It’s not enough just to have a fan….you need to create a system that removes the contaminated air so fresh air can replace it. Thanks for your comment.

    1. Hey Gail, unfortunately my blog post doesn’t allow pictures being posted in the comments section. I agree, it would be fun to see Emily’s set up.

  3. Hi Clare,

    Great information, and always good to be reminded of safety when working with encaustics. I need to find a way to have an open source of fresh air coming in other than opening a window – it’s freezing here in the winter!

    Hope all is well with you,

    Patty

    1. Hey Patty, the fresh source of air replacing the contaminated air does not need to come from outside. It can be pulled from another room. The fan out the window creates will pull the air out and create space for the un-contaminated air to replace it.

  4. Hi Clare, great post. Something that is easy to forget about. My new studio is going to have a proper exhaust system, finally. I will be putting a hood and box around the pallets. Other things I do are gloves and mask when working with dry pigments, fire extinguisher and blanket within reach, and my trusty tube of burn cream hahaha.

    1. Thanks….yes, a fire extinguisher is also a necessity, along with precautions for working with different materials.

  5. I built my studio in the unused saddle room which is in a corner of our enclosed barn. For a vent hood I used an oval galvanized tub about 12″x 24″. Turned the tub upside down and attached a dryer vent tube to the bottom of the tub( which is now the top). This tube ran out the wall and attached to a squirrel cage fan that sucked the air out at 794 cfm. I got it from Grainger. The fan and motor were attached to the outside of my studio wall which is still inside the barn, so we ran a tube from it to an outside barn wall where the exhaust blows outside. Having the fan motor outside of the studio sure does make it quieter. Also, the vent tube goes on one side of the top of the tub and I put a light bulb on the other side inside the tub. It’s like using the tub as a light shade right over my palette. I wish I could post a photo, the explanation sounds much more complicated than it is. I have a door that goes outside and one that goes into the barn. When it’s cold and windy I open the barn door ajar to get air into the room. If it’s nice out I open the outside door that has a screen door on it. It works great!

    1. Wow….that really does sound complicated….but it also sounds like it works beautifully. Kudos to you for being just as creative in venting your studio as in creating artwork! Thanks for sharing.

  6. We turned a small room into a little studio for me this year and my handyman installed a ventafume that is built into the drywall and vents outside. I have a window and door to outside across from my work space. My question is about placement of the ventafume, as I always wonder whether the “bad” fumes are worse on the pallet or from torching/heat gun use of the panel I’m working on. I know the ventafume is working (I hold up tissue and it sucks towards it), BUT my studio always smells of wax, so it leaves me wondering what is wrong and where the ventafune should be. Right now it’s about 1.5″ away from and above the pallet and my thermometer on the pallet is usually just under 200 degrees. Thanks for any feedback!

    1. You want to vent the fumes that are right above the griddle so place the ventafume right up to the griddle and a couple of inches above your containers (not the griddle itself). That’s where the fumes sit. When I have mine turned on I don’t smell the beeswax at all. You might just have yours a little low if it’s above the palette and not the containers.

        1. Fusing should only take a minute or two and isn’t a concern. It’s the fumes that hang over the containers on the griddle which is heated for much longer periods of time.

  7. I work in a concrete basement with only a small door that opens to stairs that lead outside. The space has no windows. The room is open to under the first floors, crawl space on 2 sides. . I keep a standing fan going and keep wax below 200. Do you think this is safe enough space for me to work in?

    1. I can’t tell you if it’s safe enough for you to work in. I can tell you that you need to bring fresh air in somehow and remove the air that is just above your griddle. Using a standing fan that isn’t placed above your griddle pulling the fumes out and pulling fresh air in is just moving the fumes around your workspace and is actually more hazardous to you. You might want to invest in a ventafume and get the long tube so you can put the tube out the door and up the stairs to the outside.

  8. Hi Clare,
    I’m in the Painting with Fire workshop this year. Really enjoying it! I’m in the PNW, so it’s cold and rainy during the winter, but would it be adequate ventilation to work near an open garage door if it’s raining? And during the warmer months,, is working outside on a table adequate? I would assume being in the open air (not indoors) would be safe, but am I missing something?

    1. It’s definitely better to have loads of fresh air surrounding you, but know that the fumes are still there just above the griddle.

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